fisch

You need fire, freshly caught fish, and a passion for a craft practiced for centuries. Do you have a day of the week you always look forward to? We think Thursday is a great example. It’s not too far from the start of the week and just before the weekend. Plus, it’s the day when you can get fresh, over pinewood smoked fish at Wittenbergplatz in Berlin – from Thomas. An honest fisherman in Red Wing boots, a well-smoked Carhartt vest, and well-worn Japanese raw denims. Everyone knows him, and he knows everyone, packing exactly what his loyal customers need without even asking – and he’s been doing this for over 20 years.

You probably already know that we love and appreciate simple and honest food. Wittenbergplatz has a variety of small, independent businesses that source their products with integrity and hard work. Fresh and local vegetables, fruit, butter, eggs, meat, fish, and plenty of other small delights like honey from the Uckermark. Here’s our selection of Thomas’ smoked fish and how we love to eat it.

Redfish (Rotbarsch)

According to Thomas, redfish isn’t very popular, which we can’t understand at all. Redfish has a slightly coarser texture, and the fat that clings to the bones has a buttery flavor. We keep it simple and go for a classic roll—or, even better, a pretzel roll. Here’s where our beloved Cartwright & Butler onion chutney comes into play: we spread it on the bread and then top it with the redfish. For anyone who likes a bit more heat, we definitely recommend adding some spicy horseradish.

Sprats (Sprotten)

You’re seeing it right—the much appreciated egg is back. Sprats are the “eggs” of the sea: small, full of flavor, simple, and affordable. That’s exactly why they’re perfect on some sourdough bread in the morning, with a soft-boiled egg, good salted butter, horseradish, and a sprinkle of fleur de sel. Don’t cut corners when choosing a loaf of bread next time. There’s nothing better than a honest sourdough bread from a trusted local baker. You want to know where to find one? Don’t worry, we’ve tried a handful of bakeries in Berlin and will share our favorites with you. But more on that later! Still trying to serve the perfect egg? This way!

Salmon Trout (Lachsforelle)

This is actually one of the reasons why we stand in line every Thursday at exactly 10:00 AM. That’s when the doors of the fat-driven smoker open. At the back of the oven, you’ll find the big salmon trout, hiding behind other fish like eel, char, and regular trout.
The difference between a salmon trout and a regular trout is its reddish flesh and larger size. And yes, thanks to its higher fat content, it even has a bit of a salmon-like taste. If you're not eating alone, a salmon trout is perfect for sharing. But to be honest, you can easily devour one by yourself if you're hungry enough. A simple, fresh salad or some potatoes are the perfect side to this delicious, smoky fish.

Halibut (Heilbutt)

Why do we occasionally go for halibut? There’s a little story behind it. Of course, Wittenbergplatz has plenty of other delicious foods to offer. Back in the day, we used to have “Erbsensuppe mit Mettenden” (pea soup with smoked sausage) and a piece of bread for lunch – simple but good! We always knew someone at the market was smoking fish – you couldn’t miss the smell. One day, one of us got in line at Thomas stand and met him for the first time. He had so much to offer that choosing was difficult. So, Thomas simply packed a piece of halibut with a friendly “see you next time”. From that moment on, there was no turning back. Halibut is incredibly tender and literally falls apart. Plus, like all smoked fish, it’s super healthy – rich in omega-3 fatty acids and protein.

To complement it, we wanted something fresh and simple. We went for a quick and easy beetroot salad with white onions, a generous drizzle of olive oil, a splash of balsamic vinegar, fresh parsley, and a pinch of salt and pepper. The earthy sweetness of the beets paired beautifully with the mild smokiness of the halibut – a simple yet incredibly satisfying dish.

Dogfish (Schillerlocke)

We don’t overcomplicate things – just unwrap and eat. But one thing you should know: “Schillerlocken” are often mistaken for “Goldlocken”. Schillerlocken are cut from the belly flaps of the dogfish, which is now on the endangered species list. A more sustainable alternative is the “Goldlocke” that comes from the belly flap of the tilapia, farmed in Indonesia. We say, the in German calling “Schillerlocke” is definitely the more delicious choice.

Trout

Probably the most well-known smoked fish is a simple trout. If you’re unsure where to start, trout is a great choice. Not too intense, not too fatty, and not too big. As for sides, you can go with whatever you like.

It’s not just the great fish that motivates us to head to Wittenbergplatz every Thursday morning, but also the chance to hang out with Thomas and chat about anything and everything – he’s well known for that. Sometimes, he even keeps his customers waiting just so he can have a longer conversation with someone. In his free time, he follows his passions, like hiking, riding his motorcycle, and spending time with his family in nature. For him, South Tyrol and the surrounding areas are the places he loves most.

Recently, we had “mission” that we couldn’t complete due to the weather conditions in Austria. When we told Thomas that we were driving to South Tyrol for an editorial shoot, he asked us to deliver a large salmon trout to Klausen for one of his best friends

The entire fish stall itself has something pleasant, something aesthetically appealing. The oven, which has been secured to a trailer with tension straps, the stand built from wooden beams with green tarps, and the self-mounted floodlight make the stall look simple and functional. On the counter, you can find a scale and waxed paper for properly wrapping the fish.

You can find Thomas at Wittenbergplatz in Charlottenburg on Thursdays and in Wedding at Leopoldplatz on Fridays.. and don’t show up to late!